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for crafty people


Zipped Pouch




Tutorial

Why not chat with the artist, Towst on the forum?






Monday, 22nd May 2017

This tutorial is to make a zipped pouch with boxed corners. By altering the dimensions to suit yourself you could use it as a makeup bag, pencil case, or for crochet or knitting hooks, or even a phone, tablet or laptop case. You could even add a wrist strap and make yourself a wristlet.

You will learn to make boxed corners, to add a zip and a little bit about using interfacing.

Take care to notice which way up each piece should be laid, face up (pattern side up) or face down (back of fabric up). Also take care with placing the zipper the face of the zipper is the side with the pull tab.

- Sewing machine with standard presser foot edge joining foot and quarter inch seam foot optional
- Fat quarter of fabric for the outside, you can use quilting cotton or home decor fabric if you want something sturdier
- Fat quarter of cotton fabric for the lining
- 1/4 yard of thick interfacing, either foam type or fleece, for a less 'squishy' pouch try a thin but stiff interfacing like pellon 50 or Vilene S13
- 1/4 yard of pellon shapeflex SF101 or Vilene G700 interfacing
- A zip to match your outer fabric the length should be a bit longer than the width of your pouch as it will be cut to fit.
- Thread to match fabric
- Disappearing ink/fabric pen or fabric pencil or chalk


Steps

Step 1

Cut the fabric and interfacing. From the main fabric cut two panels using this formula:-
Width you would like the pouch to be, + 1" seam allowance
Height you would like the pouch to be +1" seam allowance +3/4" for the boxed corners
Cut one zipper tab 2" high and 2x the width of your zipper (so if your zipper is 1.25 then 2"x2.5")
From the lining cut two panels the same size as the main fabric panels.
From the foam interfacing cut two panels the same size as the main fabric panels.
From the shapeflex SF101 cut at least two pieces for the lining fabric panels. If you are using quilting cotton for the outer fabric or you just want to strengthen your fabric cut four pieces.
Press the shapeflex onto the back of the lining fabric following manufacturers instructions, and also onto the reverse of the main fabric if you decided to. If the other interfacing, foam or fleece or whatever you decided on, is 'iron on' then iron it onto the back of the main fabric, if it is sew on, either baste it on with long stitches a quarter of an inch from the edge or use basting spray.


Step 2

Prepare the zipper tabs. Take the zipper tab and fold it in half so it is 1" x 2x the width of your zipper. Iron the crease in well. Open it back out and fold each side in towards the crease line, Iron it flat. Now fold it back in half again and iron flat. Cut it in half so that you have two tabs the same.


Step 3

Cut off the very end of the zipper, on the side that opens so that you can put the zipper tab you just made over the end of the zipper making sure the zipper fits right inside one of the folds and that the tab comes right up to the teeth of the zipper. Baste it together at the very edge furthest away from the zipper teeth or pin or clip it into place. Edge stitch across the edge closest to the zipper teeth.


Step 4

Take the front exterior panel and place it face up, now measure 1/2" from both sides on the top edge of the fabric. If your fabric is directional double check it's the correct way up.

Open the zipper half way. Place your zipper face down on top of the fabric so that the zipper tab is against one of the 1/2" marks. Line the zipper up with the top of the fabric, clip into place if necessary. Use the fabric marker to mark the zipper on the other side where it is level with the other 1/2" mark and cut along this mark being careful not to cut off the zipper pull. Attach the second zipper tab as you did the first one.


Step 5

Place the front exterior panel right side up. Open the zipper half way. Pin or clip the zipper in place right side down along the top edge between the two 1/2" marks, Place a lining piece right side down on top of this. Align sides and top edges. If the front and back of your pouch are the same it doesn't matter which way the zipper is. If you have a definite front and back then the pull is usually on the left when closed.

Sew along the top edge through all three layers making sure they all stay in place. I like to use a 1/4" seam presser foot for this but if you prefer to use a zipper foot or standard foot that is fine. When you come to the zipper pull, stop with the needle down, lift the foot and jiggle the zipper along and out of the way.


Step 6

Flip the fabric around so that the exterior and lining fabric are smoothed down and the zipper unstitched side is sticking up. Iron the fabric away from the zipper taking care not to melt the zipper.


Step 7

Place the back exterior panel face up, place the piece with the zipper on top with the lining fabric on top. The two exterior panels should be right sides together. Pin or clip into place. The back exterior panel should have the top edge in line with the free edge of the zipper. Baste these layers together near the top edge. Add the remaining lining panel and place it right sides together with the first lining panel but it's top edge should also be in line with the top edge of the zipper. You should now have:-
back exterior fabric
front exterior fabric,
zipper
lining piece
2nd lining piece

Sew together 1/4" from the top edge. This will sew through the back exterior fabric the zipper and the 2nd lining piece. Iron the fabric away from the zipper as before.


Step 8

Open out the pouch so it is flat with the zipper in the middle. Both exterior pieces should be on one side and both lining pieces underneath. Using a slightly longer stitch (3.0) is good, topstitch close to the edge of the fabric near to the zipper. I like to use a joining presser foot for this, sometimes called stitch in the ditch foot. If you have one you can align the blade against the top edge of the fabric and move the needle a bit to the left and you can sew a neat line 1/8" or so from the edge. You could also use the general presser foot and sew slowly and carefully and get the line as straight as you can or use a 1/4" and see if putting the blade against the zipper teeth will work, if not put it against the top of the fabric and you will just have a bigger seam, which is fine.


Step 9

Open the zipper half way and fold the pouch so that both exterior pieces are one side and both lining pieces are together the other, and lay it flat again. This time you should see an exterior and a lining on top and the same underneath. Carefully clip it together at the sides where the zip is, take your time to line it up correctly. Then continue to clip the rest of the sides together (or pin).

Using a fabric marker mark a gap of about 5" at the bottom of the lining fabric. Sew together the pouch with a 1/2" seam allowance, starting just past the zipper on the exterior fabric side, back stitch, sew down to the bottom, across, back up the other side and onto the lining, stop at the gap and back stitch. Start again the other side of the gap back stitching to set the stitches and sew down the side over the zip to where you started, back stitching at the end. Sew slowly over the zip if you catch the edges of it.
Cut the corners at an angle about an inch up as shown. Do not cut the stitches. Cut the thicker interfacing out of the seam allowance, right up to the stitches without cutting the stitches to avoid bulk in the seams.


Step 10

Take a corner of the pouch and pinch it together so that the seam you just did are pressed together (The pouch should still be inside out) If you push a pin through the seam one side it should come out of the seam the other if the two seams are accurately on top of each other. Clip together. Flatten the corner so that the seam is on top in the middle and measure where the corner is 1.5 across and draw a line across with the fabric marker. It should be 3/4 from each side to the seam and 3/4 from the point of the corner to the line.

Sew across the line and backstitch for added stability. Cut off the corner. Repeat this with the other three corners.


Step 11

Slowly and carefully turn the pouch the right way around, pushing it through the gap you left in the lining fabric. Carefully push the corners out with your finger, a corner tool or a chopstick. Pull out the lining and iron the gap so the seam is straight with the the rest of the lining. You can sew the gap closed with an invisible ladder stitch or you can just sew it near the edge with your machine. Give the whole thing a good press and you're done.